The return of the British seaside dream

I used to bang a brass gong at dinnertime for our guests, who included people playing at the local theatre on the promenade, the Floral Pavilion. In those days comedians like Les Dawson played for weeks at the resorts, and the bad weather was always the butt of his jokes.

But nowadays, the Mediterranean is just too stifling for Brits. We’re also put off by airport delays over the EU’s new Entry-Exit System. Officials at Rome’s Fiumicino airport said it has tripled the time it takes for Brits to get through passport control, from seven minutes to 20 minutes. Delays can be up to two hours.

Visit England, the country’s tourist board, told me that almost 80% of us looking for a break have been searching UK destinations, a significant rise on this time last year. Visit England says more than 40% of us are avoiding foreign travel to swerve the repercussions of the Iran war and other “global conflicts”. 

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It’s hard to think of anywhere further removed from the world’s troublespots than Bournemouth. That’s where Kattya will be going this summer. The 59-year-old lecturer loves to travel, but the “beautiful” Dorset coast is her next destination. 

I met Kattya when I was talking to people about their holidays at Waterloo station. Sisters Alisha and Emily Waters, in their early twenties, who were celebrating their art degrees, said they love family seaside holidays. 

A round-up of industry data suggests that the average cost of a seven-night European package deal is £1,200 per person compared to £760 in the UK. But British holidays aren’t a giveaway: we are the only country in Europe not to have a lower rate of VAT for tourism. 

Still, at Morelli’s, an Italian ice cream shop and art deco institution in Broadstairs, Giuseppe Morelli tells me that they’re serving 240 litres of their homemade flavours every day: that’s about 1,000 cones, at a conservative estimate. 

“As the schools break up, I expect we’ll double or even triple that. This time last year it was only about 140 litres,” said Giuseppe. “As soon as the sun comes out, people are out and about looking for something to do. And the first thing they do when they come to Broadstairs is come to us for an ice cream.” 

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The stay-at-home trend is putting lesser-known locations on the map. According to Time Out magazine, the best beach in the whole country is at Saundersfoot in Pembrokeshire (pop. 2,286). The editors raved about its “immaculate” food scene, featuring local seafood and Welsh cakes. 

The piece de resistance of any self-respecting resort was once its grand pier. These barnacled constructions have been neglected in recent years – but many are enjoying a renaissance. Britannia Pier in Great Yarmouth has been named “Pier of the year” in an award established by the late poet laureate Sir John Betjeman, who once said of the nation’s longest boardwalk at Southend (1.34 miles long), “the pier is Southend, Southend is the pier”. 

As if on cue, the last man standing from the golden age of light entertainment, Jimmy Tarbuck, has come out of semi-retirement to tread the boards again. This year, he’s doing a show at the Grand Theatre in Blackpool, the Valhalla of British showbusiness. 

Once a regular turn at the Floral Pavilion, Tarbuck, 85, says, “I love getting on stage, where I belong. Now I am really looking forward to visiting the towns and cities where I learned my craft.” 

“The crowds are always on great form,” he says, “and ready to laugh.”