It’s never too soon to plan for next year’s festivals. If you are considering a change from your Glastonbury and Glyndebourne routine, the places to be in the German-speaking world are Bayreuth, Salzburg and Wacken. Here’s your guide to our big three.
LEGACY
Bayreuth is not about surprise acts. It’s Wagner, Wagner and – guess what – more Wagner. The canon is sacred, but recent seasons have dared to include a children’s opera and even (brace yourself) open-air events. The musical elite may be debating whether Bayreuth really still is the epitome of all things Wagner, but when it comes to singers and conductors, the world’s best still go to the Grüner Hügel (Green Hill), including the likes of Simone Young, Christian Thielemann or soprano Catherine Foster.
Salzburg is true to its spirit as a “festival of the mind”, not devoted to a single artist – but to an idea, the sense of life. Which is as relevant today as it was upon its foundation as a response to the cruelties of the first world war. The Festspiele offers exquisite opera, theatre, concerts – and plenty of moral reckoning. Jedermann, that cheerful little play about the death of a rich man, returns yet again. And so will stars like tenor Jonas Kaufmann, soprano Asmik Grigorian and even Hollywood’s Christoph Waltz.
W:O:A for Wacken Open Air (fittingly pronounced Vuck’n) in the north German plains between Hamburg and the Danish border is the loudest of the three. Founded by two metalheads in the 1990s, it is now owned by the British Superstruct Entertainment (ie KKR). Wacken promises a thunderous return in 2026 with Def Leppard’s first visit. Also booked: Powerwolf, In Flames, Sepultura and H-Blockx. This August, Guns N’ Roses played the longest set in Wacken history – a full three hours.
TICKETS
Bayreuth used to be the Fort Knox of tickets: years of waiting and opaque allocation policies. These days, you can buy leftover seats online, sometimes for under £100. But beware: the bargain spots are often perched in the rafters of an un-air-conditioned Festspielhaus. The upside? At 30C, you’ll experience Götterdämmerung in a very literal sense. If you’re just in for Wagner, however, get tickets for the final rehearsals: accommodation will be cheaper then, too.
Salzburg offers more than 220,000 tickets across opera, theatre and concerts. Half of them cost £5 to £110, especially if you’re young, studenty, or quick off the mark. But if you’re aiming for prime seats, prepare to pay £350 plus – not including your dirndl.
Wacken keeps things simple: It’s £305 plus the cost of your tent – but beware: last year the Metalheads snapped up all 85,000 tickets by September.
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GLAM FACTOR
Bayreuth rolls out the red carpet for the German political class. Angela Merkel is a fixture, chancellor Friedrich Merz has followed in her footsteps, and even King Charles dropped in (in 1987).
Salzburg is the true A-list destination. Swedish royals, German aristocracy (and Austrian, they just don’t call it that any more), billionaires, international jet set – all in for a Mozartkugel. Even Vladimir Putin was on the guest list once. Covid thankfully intervened. Wearing Tracht (you have watched The Sound of Music, haven’t you?) is in and the right etiquette is a must. Turn your back (and bum) on people while passing through the aisle to your seat and you’re considered to be part of the downfall of western civilisation.
Wacken? Forget all that. Just a lot of black leather and a unifying scent of beer. Respect is earned by carrying your mate through a knee-deep puddle at 2am without spilling your Jägermeister.
FESTIVAL FLAIR
Bayreuth’s picturesque streets may be lined with international flags, but the vibe remains Lutheran. You are expected to have studied the libretto weeks ahead. The reward (next to Siegfried, the Meistersinger etc) is Bratwurst, and plenty of it. Veterans know to keep a cooler in the boot for refreshments during the hour-long intervals.
Salzburg is baroque bliss and Instagrammable alpine chic. Between performances, you can climb the Gaisberg and contemplate your budget. Downside: the town goes to bed early. Midnight schnitzel? Dream on.
Wacken, finally, has its own meteorological category. This year brought nearly 40 litres of rain per sq metre on day one. The site became a swamp, but fans soldiered on. And if your car is stuck, a tractor will tow it – promise.
So, now you know your options. Are you brave enough to do all three?
